“Colfondo” trademark owner Francesco Drusian appears poised to give the designation to the Prosecco DOCG consortia, according to a report published today by the popular Italian wine blog Intravino.
“After twelve years,” writes Intravino contributor Giovanni Corazzol, “Drusian has expressed his willingness to give the trademark to the two consortia [Conegliano-Valdobbiadene and Montello-Colli Asolani]. The consortia will safeguard the trademark and they will incorporate the production method into their appellation regulations. By doing so, they will bring clarity to a field threatened by low-quality products that have been created using illicit means, often outside the DOCG area and often with different grapes.”
At present, the Prosecco DOCG (which applies to both consortia) recognizes and allows for Prosecco re-fermented in bottle as a sanctioned category. But the appellation regulations do not mention nor regulate the designation colfondo.
News of Drusian’s willingness to share the trademark arrived during a Prosecco producers conference organized in Valdobbiadene township last week by Turin university wine law professor Michele Antonio Fino.
Today, the editors of Intravino also shared Fino’s slides, including the following, which addresses the issue of how the term colfondo is used liberally by winemakers and even beer and wine-cooler producers outside of the Prosecco DOCG where it originated.
The Franciacorta designation Satén, created by the Bellavista winery and then given to the appellation’s consortium, offers a precedent, writes Fino.
- - Today, two companies own the trademark colfondo (Drusian and Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene SAC).
– There already exists a tested model that could serve as inspiration: the term Satén (created by a winery [Bellavista, trademarked in 1990] and then given to the Franciacorta consortium with the understanding that the appellation would guarantee its oversight and regulate production of Satén wines)….
– Today, the colfondo trademark is under insidious attack and is being demeaned unscrupulously. It’s being liberally and widely used in a wide range of categories (that often don’t have anything to do with the production of Prosecco DOCGG).
– Of the two private parties who own the trademark, only one currently produces the wine [Drusian].
– The protection of such a beleaguered trademark by private individuals would be particularly complex and costly.
– Were it to become a officially recognized production category, efforts to protect it would be expedited.
With characteristic hyperbole, the editors of Intravino have called the move by Drusian an “epochal shift” and “Prosecco colfondo year zero” (making reference to the 1948 Rossellini neorealist film “Germany Year Zero”).
But as interest and enthusiasm for Prosecco colfondo continue to expand unchecked in Italy, the consortia’s embrace of the category would represent a major victory for colfondo proponents.
On his Facebook today, Bele Casel grape grower and winemaker Luca Ferraro called it “the beginning of a revolution.”
Translations by Bele Casel blogmaster Jeremy Parzen.